The Face of History

A good day for this tour is Saturday, to avoid the Friday prayer’s crowds. Start by heading out to the Sayyida Zeinab district and the Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun.This mosque is one of the city’s oldest, dating back to 879 AD, and also the largest in terms of land area. After indulging in its grand architecture, take a 1,000-year step forward and visit Beit Al-Kritiliya, also known as the Gayer-Anderson Museum, near the mosque’s entrance. Housed in two Ottoman-era houses, the museum features Middle Eastern, Turkish and Persian memorabilia collected by a British army officer stationed in Cairo before the Second World War.

Next, head down Soufiya Street to the recently restored Palace of Amir Taz. Apart from being an attraction in its own right, the palace also hosts art galleries and a museum about the Mamluk era.

From there, make your way to Salah El-Din Square for the breathtaking Madrassa and Mosque of Al Sultan Hassan, a massive Mamluk-era compound that stands as testament to Cairo’s glory days of the fourteenth century.Adjacent to it is the famous Refai Mosque, home to the graves of King Farouk and the Shah of Iran. Both mosques impose a sense of serenity once you step into their impressive main halls.

These mosques, while active places of worship, are also tourist attractions, so there’s no need to feel uneasy. The ticket kiosk is open from 9am to 4:30pm, and a ticket costs LE 25 for foreigners.

From the Sultan Hassan and Rifai mosque complex, walk down Mohamed Ali Street to Tentmakers Street which takes you to Cairo’s medieval Bab Zuweila, the south gate and one of the few standing remnants of the Fatimid-era wall that surrounded Cairo.The gate now houses a small museum (open 8:30am–5pm, tickets LE 20 for adults, LE 10 for students) where you can climb inside the wall and up the twin minarets of the Al-Muayyad Mosque.

Al-Moez Street starts at Bab Zuweila and is lined by a local market that sells everything from wedding candles and garments, to tarboushes (oriental hats).Walk along the alleyway and enjoy a bustling atmosphere until you reach Al-Azhar Street, leading to Al-Azhar Mosque.

The core of Sunni Islam and home to one of the oldest functioning universities in the world, Al-Azhar is a must-see on any tour of Islamic Cairo.Continuously expanded and refurbished since the Fatimids founded it in 970 AD, the complex has the markings of many of the nation’s Islamic dynasties. Materials used in the buildings have been excavated from the remains of the Ancient Egyptians through Greek and Roman rule to the Coptic Christianity era.

Your path is lined with tiny shops and dozens of small monuments so the tour will definitely leave you exhausted.To recuperate, have a cup of tea at the café in Beit Zeinab Khatoun, located behind Al-Azhar Mosque near Beit Al-Harrawi. Dating back to the fifteenth century, Beit Zeinab Khatoun has been restored as a heritage site. The atmosphere and detail of the restoration work — combined with the flair of the local coffee shops — will no doubt leave you charmed.