You’ll be hard pressed to entertain a true Cairene in Alexandria. I typically spend the journey to Alex wondering how long I will have to stay and when I will get to go home. Aside from the beach — with less-than-ideal swimming conditions — Alex used to be a place to visit family, a chance to unwind, but certainly not a place to go and be wined and dined. Until the entry of the Four Seasons San Stefano Resort. The hotel, which opened in July, is set to shake up the entertainment scene in Alexandria, with a slew of new restaurants, cafés and relaxation options.

Egypt’s fourth and newest Four Seasons is tucked into the San Stefano Grand Plaza along the Corniche in central Alexandria. With this hotel, world-renowned French architect Pierre Yves Rochon — most famous for his work on the Four Seasons Nile Plaza and the Four Seasons in Geneva — has created the perfect blend of opulence and simplicity. With standards equaling the finest of coastal resorts, the hotels main distinction is its location smack-dab in the middle of the city. A prize combination: Taking the best of the city and combining it with the relaxation commonly found on the beach.

With only 119 rooms, the Four Seasons San Stefano is very much a boutique hotel, and its rooms are decked out with huge beds and neutral furniture. I personally always judge hotels by their bathrooms, and this one passed with flying colors. The bathtub, with a fabulously strong shower and a tiny flat-screen television blaring out VH1 was made complete by the perfect fluffy bathrobe. Everything in the hotel encourages you to kick up your Hermes sneakers, take a breather and not lift a finger throughout the duration of your stay.

What the Four Seasons is truly adding to Egypt’s second city is a host of first-class dining experiences. At press time, four of the planned nine restaurants and lounges were open, all offering excellent service (what more would you expect from the Four Seasons?), refreshing ambience and most importantly, great food. ‘Nitpicky’ might as well be my second name, and my hyperactive tendency leads me to want to move every 10 minutes. I was able to sit quite content for over two hours for lunch at the Greek restaurant Kala and for dinner at Byblos, the Lebanese/French offering. Stefano’s, the Italian eatery, kept me in contented bliss for an epic three hours. The Energizer bunny would struggle to move from one of their overstuffed chairs.

The main restaurant, Kala, is decorated in traditional blue and white Greek motif, but what isn’t so typical is the comfortable seating and the classy atmosphere. While à-la-carte is an option, the buffet is simply fabulous. Despite the Greek motif, the food is better described as general Mediterranean, featuring Greek, Lebanese and Egyptian food. The salad bar is divine, with delectable cold cuts and beautifully done strips of meatloaf accompanied by peppers and tomatoes, seasoned perfectly with a delicate vinaigrette. Another must-try is the artichoke salad, accompanied by sweet corn and colored bell peppers. The sweet corn is complemented perfectly by a tangy lemon dressing.

Entrée options include beef, chicken or fish, all prepared fresh and all on display in the light, airy dining area. Those of you on a break from the Atkins diet will love the rice garnished with lentils, or the pasta prepared fresh to order from the type of sauce to the toppings. You won’t be hard pressed to find something that automatically makes you drool, but take the traditional route and get the grilled fish — you are in Alexandria after all. Team it with your choice of pasta or rice, both cooked to perfection.

One always applicable suggestion when dealing with top-notch restaurants: Save room for dessert. Kala does not offer big slabs of chocolate cake (although you can order one à-la-carte if you are so inclined), instead serving out bite-sized delicacies ranging from sorbets to soufflés to tiny little strawberry tarts. Go crazy with the desserts; they are small, each one inexplicably light. A personal favorite was the raspberry soufflé, which melts in the mouth with a bittersweet explosion of raspberry accenting the soft sweetness of the souffle. Cap your indulgence with a cappuccino or that wonderful lemon-mint drink that is guaranteed to settle the stomach after all those sweets.

Private parties can reserve a side room to celebrate against the backdrop of a crystal-blue Mediterranean.

The hotel does not fail to please in the aesthetic department either. Apart from Kala, the other restaurants currently open for dinner are Byblos and Stefano’s. With its Lebanese theme, Byblos is decorated with a subtle oriental opulence in mind, a perfect combination of simplicity and luxury. One of the great aspects of the hotel’s design is its harmonious contrasts, and Byblos is no exception. Leopard-print chairs are complemented by soothing pastel walls. The intricate Turkish-style chandeliers and wall fixtures are crystalline glass are accented with subtle glittering jewels. The combination of decor, food and service makes for a fantastic dining experience.

There is an attention to detail that seems effortless: Not once did I feel smothered by the presence of the waiter, yet somehow my glass kept getting filled with water. Everything here is first class; a natural habitat for the absolutely fabulous, who until now had nowhere to go in Alex.

The food is nothing to scoff at either. The mezzas — which make or break any Lebanese restaurant — were consistently amazing. From the hummus to the waraq enab, nothing was lacking, each with a distinct and authentically Lebanese flavor. The baba ghanoug is exquisite, garnished with red and yellow bell peppers. It is probably one of the better baba ghanougs I have tried in Egypt — a sweet smooth wave of flavor without a trace of bitterness. Also on offer are tiny manaqesh, filled with oregano, cheese or a combination of both.

The mezzas at Byblos were a tough act to follow, but Stefano’s lived up to this high standard. Painted in a warm orange and decorated to resemble a cozy trattoria, the restaurant is inviting and relaxing. This eatery doesn’t force you to feel a certain way, on the contrary it enhances your current mood, or lifts your spirits. Conversations flow easily in an intimate setting that is perfect for a dinner with friends or a romantic evening out.

For starters, try the risotto with mushrooms and cheese. The sleek, buttery risotto blends with the smoothness of the cheese and the earthy freshness of the mushrooms, distinct flavors perfectly suited to the other. For the main course, we enjoyed a seafood pasta with red sauce, cooked al dente and garnished with fresh shrimps, calamari and a dusting of herbs and spices. The dessert was bliss — a mango sorbet teamed with a raspberry truffle trapped between delicate biscuits drizzled with a touch of raspberry sauce and topped with lightest possible whipped cream. Our tongues were teased with the play of tangy and sweet, creamy and crunchy.

There are a plethora of wines to choose from, Italian to Australian, French to Egyptian. All options are on the cards when dining here, and nothing seems too farfetched. In fact, Four Seasons San Stefano has broken with tradition in that its al fresco tapas bar, Bleu, offers shisha; something none of its sister resorts do. Relax in the large wicker chairs, enjoy the breeze and digest your meal with a frothy cappuccino while looking out at the infinite Mediterranean. It really is the perfect end to a night of pure indulgence.

If there ever was a place where cravings are rapidly satisfied, it is the Four Seasons San Stefano pool, where you are greeted with a smile and a stunning view of the Mediterranean. This is the place to take full advantage of Alexandria’s great weather, with its constant sea breeze making the harsh sun bearable.

At the pool, prepare for some pampering. Every 10 minutes, one of the attendants come around to offer you the tiniest luxury. What is great about these little treats is that they seem to be based on powerful mind reading; one minute you are trying to put a name to an inner yen that cannot quite be placed — moments later, genie-in-a-bottle style, enter a waiter displaying fruits on a stick. Another 10 minutes later, he passes by to see if you would like a spritz of cooling water. Yes, the Evian variety. Half an hour after being spritzed, I was given a little strawberry icicle, perfect for the heat. There is no request that is too strange, so ask for whatever you want. So close your eyes, lie back and pretend you’re in St. Tropez. It sure feels like it.

And there is more to come. A two-story Spa and Wellness Center is set to open by the year’s end, while the resort’s exclusive beach is expected to be ready by summer 2008.

You don’t need too much to make the most of the Four Seasons in San Stefano: a fabulous designer outfit, a great set of friends or that special someone. Whether for an anniversary, birthday or relaxed lunch, this really is the hotel that caters to all tastes, creating a luxurious and relaxing home away from home. Exactly what Alexandria needs. et

Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria 399 El-Geish Road Alexandria Tel. +2 (03) 581-8000 fourseasons.com/alexandria Prices are extremely expensive