In With the New, Out with the Old

Once an affluent neighborhood, the Dokki of today is the result of a demographic transformation that began in the 1960s and 70s when a surge of migrants from the countryside flocked to the area. At the same time droves of long-time upper class residents — although in fewer numbers than the arriving migrants —moved towards the then-fringe settlements of Heliopolis and Nasr City. Many of the old villas, mansions and gardens of the district’s first incarnation were destroyed to make room for the ghastly 1960s cement block architecture that blights most of the city today.

As you walk through the streets of Dokki, you notice a strange hybrid of its class-conscious history: on a normal residential street you may find one side lined with abandoned villas, while a turn around the corner will land you in a lively shaabi micro-neighborhood. Though this contrast can be found across Cairo, it is especially evident in Dokki. The area remains popular for both lower and upper middle class families, artisans and professionals.

A district of greater Giza, Dokki is situated between Giza proper and Mohandiseen, sitting across from Downtown on the western bank of the Nile. With central metro access, residential Dokki is minutes away from surrounding districts and a half-hour commute from Maadi.

In addition to major landmarks like the Giza Zoo, Sheraton Cairo, Cinema Tahrir, the Orman Botanical Gardens and Faisal Islamic Bank of Egypt, Dokki is home to Cairo University, the German School and a range of smaller educational institutions like MSA, Ouruba Language School, and AMIDEAST Egypt’s offices. There are more than 40 foreign embassies­ (including Russian, French, Ethiopian and Czech), making the area second to Zamalek as a seat of international diplomatic offices. The American Chamber of Commerce and the Wafd Party headquarters are also located in Dokki.

In Midan Mesaha, one can find all the ubiquitous unoriginals: Cilantro, Pizza Hut and McDonalds. Tahrir Street sports the popular El-Omda, while Mosaddaq Street offers a slightly more glamorous walk, with Café Tabasco and flashy clothing shops. Don’t miss out on Chocofolie, a heart-stopping chocolate joint offering everything you could possibly imagine infused with the cacao product. Behold sweet potato with ice cream and choc sauce, and the legendary Mexican choc-shot, a shot of the sinful stuff made even more devilish with added chilli.

A testament to the thriving lower class community, Dokki and Tahrir streets offer a range of vendors and services. Music stores, coiffeurs, fruit and vegetable stands, ahwas, bakeries, appliance stores and the occasional sunglass or clothing boutique are present and tend to be on the baladi side: colorful, basic and cheap. In Dokki Square, there is a decent fish take-out (that starts serving deep-fried bay shrimp as early as 8:30 in the morning). A little further down from Cinema Tahrir, a right-turn onto a side road will bring you to a delightful souk that stretches all the way to Agouza. From fresh fruit and vegetables to natural loofahs, this street will provide you with everything you need — especially if you are on a tight budget.

Housing in Dokki is slightly difficult to characterize, though aesthetically it ranges from cheap, run down apartment blocks to elegantly appointed rooms overlooking the Nile. Beware when purchasing a home near one of the numerous schools dotting the area, one resident reported living on the 18th floor and still being woken up by the din created by 250 hyper children every morning at 8am. According to local real estate agents, average residential property sale prices in the area range from LE 2,500 – 4,000 per square meter, while rental prices range anywhere between LE 3,000 to $2,000 (LE 12,000) per month (though lower rental prices are easy to find). During the summer high season, central areas such as Dokki experience increased interest in sales and rental properties.

Residents report a life of comfort. With its proximity to all major neighborhoods, and its plethora of supermarkets like Metro, Alfa and Seoudi, Dokki is a convenient location to call home if comfort and centrality top your priority list.  et