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December 2005  Volume # 26  Issue 12 
 
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September 2006
City of Giggles
From eight-foot lizards to leashed baby squirrels, there’s plenty in Bangkok to make you smile. But the real reason to go to Thailand? The food.
By Jessica Olien

Near a temple complex in the heart of Bangkok, a monk told me the story of the ‘fat Buddha.’ “Once there was a very beautiful monk,” he began, adjusting the saffron robe on his shoulder before adding, “much like the monk sitting before you at this moment.” At this, the holy man with the shaved head burst into a peal of giggles so uncontrollable it took him minutes to regain his composure before finishing the story of the figure that is commonly seen gracing Chinese takeout boxes around the world.


Bangkok is a city prone to giggles. Thailand’s capital, an 8-million-strong metropolis, boasts a tropical climate, a growing economy and some of the best food on the planet.

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Southeast Asia is quickly becoming a tourist hub for Egyptians and travelers from other Arab countries, and Malaysia’s cities and beaches are particularly popular. Just a two-hour flight north of the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur, you can satisfy nearly every appetite in Bangkok’s sprawling markets and side streets.

Transportation in the city is modern, clean and cheap. Mercifully, taxis here are air conditioned and metered, but Bangkok’s traffic makes me want to reach for an airsickness bag. My transport of choice: the Skytrain, an elevated metro system zipping past gleaming skyscrapers. It is by far the fastest and most comfortable way around town. (The less picturesque underground metro is also more efficient than sitting in a traffic jam for hours.)

Lumphini Park, the best place to take a walk early in the morning, is filled with people playing Mah Jong, singing karaoke and doing Tai Chi. It is also a good spot for lizard watching, as the occasional eight-foot-long Monitor Lizard will sun itself on the grassy banks of the park’s large man-made ponds. (Not to worry — Monitors are generally quite lazy.) You can also rent a paddle boat and take in views of the surrounding skyline as your boat plunks through the water.

Vast temple complexes gather along the Chao Phraya, Bangkok’s main river, which has become incredibly polluted and is home to a breed of fish that is said to eat the occasional dog unlucky enough to take a tumble into its waters. Near the river, the Wat Pho temple houses the Reclining Buddha, a gold-leafed figure so enormous that fitting it into a single photograph is nearly impossible. It is also home to one of the best massage schools in Thailand, where for a small sum you can subject yourself to the rigorous yoga-like techniques that have made Thai massage so popular. Incidentally, Wat Pho is one of the few places sure to leave you feeling better afterwards, instead of the customary ‘whiplash’ effect.

The Grand Palace, a sparkly tribute to Thai architecture and the former seat of the monarchy, is a short walk from Wat Pho. A fog of incense from the smoldering offerings left by hopeful visitors wafts through the temples and spirit houses within the Palace’s interior walls.

Thai people, who never fell under the grips of colonialism, love their king, and it isn’t difficult to see why. King Bhumibol is the longest-reigning monarch alive in the world today. Pictures of him, often with a camera slung around his neck, are ubiquitous, adorning thoroughfares and the highest perimeter of shop walls. Twice every day, the national anthem is played in public places and the city comes to a standstill in reverence for their leader.

Situated at the end of the Skytrain’s Mo Chit line, Chatuchak weekend market is the shopper’s dream come true and the claustrophobic’s worst nightmare. Over 9,000 stalls cram into the park on Friday and Saturday, selling everything from designer jeans to baby squirrels on leashes. I bought a shirt in the market for 200 baht (LE 30) that I later saw in Vogue going for $250 (LE 1,437).

If the idea of shuffling through a crowded market in 40°C heat makes you queasy, try Siam Square instead. Located in the center of Bangkok, this is a shrine to all things commercial, with three shopping malls and hundreds of stores in between, most of which are air-conditioned.

You don’t have to be a shopaholic or even a sightseer to appreciate a few days in Bangkok. In fact, you don’t need a reason other than the food to come to Thailand — and let it be said, food is everywhere.

In this nation of tiny people with huge appetites, you could spend a month on a single street and still not have time to try everything on offer. Pad Thai (rice noodles with peanut sauce), fresh fruit and Som Tum (spicy papaya salad) are just a few favorites, along with anything that can be eaten off a stick (including eggs and crab meat). Don’t let people scare you away from eating things off the street. If the stall looks clean and the food smells good, go for it.

Sukhumvit Road is a good place to find yourself at night. On this long commercial stretch, high-end shopping malls with Louis Vuitton stores cohabitate with bars, restaurants and elephants (yes, live elephants) vying for space on the busy street, along with some of the city’s seedier attractions. Some of the best clubs in the city are just off the main road and have begun to bring in international DJs and musicians. In recent years, Bangkok’s youth culture has taken off and, while it may not be the most original (think Beyoncé and Red Bull), it is definitely fun. On the side-street Sukhumvit Soi 11, the clubs Q Bar and Bed (which looks like an overturned soup-can from the outside and a spaceship on the inside), are both on the A-list of the Bangkok elite and play host to some excellent DJs.

If you’re feeling homesick, the few street-blocks off of Sukhumvit Soi 3 that make up the Arab and North African district are a good place to go to satisfy that urge for shisha or shawerma.

At 2am, all over the city, bars close, vendors shut down, and everyone who is still awake sits on a plastic chair at one of the street’s noodle stalls. If you’re lucky, a man will come by with his cart of crispy-fried insects.

And, inevitably, someone will be giggling.

Bangkok Snapshot

Language: Thai English is also

widely used in Bangkok.

Time Zone: GMT +7

Visas: Egyptians will need to apply for a visa before departure; most citizens of European and North American countries will not need a visa or can obtain one at the port of entry. For details, contact the Embassy of Thailand in Cairo. Tel: +2 (02) 336-7005 or 760-3553/4.

Climate: With its tropical climate, Thailand is hot and humid year-round with average temperatures in the 30s. March through May are particularly hot, followed by the wet, sticky monsoon season starting in late summer or early fall.

Currency: Thai baht LE 1=6.5 Thai baht and $1=37.5 baht. Thailand is generally a very inexpensive country. A bowl of noodles is about 20 baht, and a pair of shoes almost anywhere will go for 200 baht.

Hours: Most stores open between 10am and 11am and stay open until evening, while most markets have designated morning or evening hours when they do business.

There and Away: EgyptAir has four direct flights a week to Bangkok, leaving Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday in the evening. If you’re coming from Malaysia, AirAsia, the Malaysia-based discount airline, has multiple flights to Bangkok daily from all major Malaysian cities.

Stay: Bangkok has hundreds of hotels in all price ranges. Most visitors choose to stay near Siam Square or in the commercial area of Sukhumvit Road. Another option is The Oriental Hotel (www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/), consistently rated as one of the world’s best and located directly on the Chao Phraya river with its own boat service. et

 
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