From endless rolling sand dunes, one of the longest rivers in the world, unbroken chains of mountains and acres of muddy marshes and murky lakes, Egypt possesses an unparalleled natural wealth.

Since Sinai’s Ras Mohamed National Park was declared a protected area in 1983, some 23 more national parks (Wadi El-Gemal National Park being the most recent in 2003), have been granted status. Totalling 95,000 square kilometers, or 9.5 percent of Egypt’s total surface area, the natural protectorates are havens for endangered species.

With seven natural protectorates and national parks, Sinai is an obvious starting point. The peninsula’s natural beauty entices divers and trekkers alike with its abundant marine life and awesome mountainscapes. Ras Mohamed, stretching 850 square kilometers, has gained worldwide fame for its magnificent range of coral reefs and acts as an important stop for migratory birds. It is also a natural habitat for one of the rarest ibexes left on the planet — the Nubian Ibex.

Deep in the Sinai Mountains north of Ras Mohamed lies St. Catherine’s. Known largely for it magnificent monastery, St. Catherine’s was built to the order of Emperor Justinian between 527 and 565 AD and today stands as a UNESCO cultural and natural heritage site. Located at the footstep of another holy site — Mount Sinai — the ancient monastery contains priceless Arab mosaics as well as Russian and Greek icons.

Moving northward to the Mediterranean coast, the geography transforms dramatically, from rigid mountains to dense marshes. The protectorates of Al-Ahrash, Zaranikh and Lake Bardawil are all essential resting points for migratory and resident birds.

Nothing matches the sight of clear blue waves lapping softly onto yellow sand dunes. Where the Eastern Desert meets the Red Sea is Egypt’s largest national park, the goliath Gabal Elba — a 30,000 square kilometer biosphere reserve in the far southeastern corner of the country (see page 128). The park is home to more than 500 plant species, including the threatened Dragon Tree (Dracaena ombet).

Mohamed El-Hebeishy A mangrove stand in the Red Sea

Farther north is Wadi El-Gemal, a desert protectorate which also hosts a variety of marine specimens. This particular area is becoming very popular with visitors, a perfect example of well-planned ecotourism. Unlike many other parks that require an endless stream of funds to keep their heads above water, Wadi El-Gemal has started to turn a profit.

For a close encounter of the surreal kind, why not try swimming with dolphins on Samadi Reef? Playing with dolphins has always been popular with visitors, but management recently imposed limits on the number of swimmers per day out of concern for the magnificent mammals. The reef is partitioned into a speed boat area, a snorkellers-only area and an absolutely no entry area.

Unlike the Eastern Desert, the Western Desert has very few mountains and is characterized by open areas and sandy terrain boasting the largest expanse of sand in the world — the Great Sand Sea. Despite its vastness, the Western Desert has only two protectorates: the White Desert and Siwa.

Declared a national park in 2002, the White Desert is an open-air museum of chalky rocks and geological formations. Wind has created a set of amazing naturally carved statues that, whitish in-color, are nothing short of breathtaking. Sadly, the dainty Dorcas Gazelle has disappeared from the Western Desert, courtesy of poaching and overhunting. Today, only a handful of wildlife species freely roam the endless sandy slopes, among them the Fennec Fox, a tiny mammal the size of a small feral cat. This particular type of fox has grown accustomed to humans and fearlessly approaches visitors. Trekkers should not be afraid —except, perhaps, for their food supplies.

The rich oasis of Siwa sits 300 kilometers south of Marsa Matruh. This protectorate allows visitors to experience a slice of culture and tradition: From exuberant activities including sandboarding and off-road travel to more relaxed sightseeing activities, Siwa is also renowned for its traditional jewelry making, unique architecture and natural spas as well as the ancient temple of Amon.

You’d never expect to find a protected area in the nation’s bustling capital, but there is one just a stone’s throw away from the hectic traffic jams and heavy pollution of Tahrir Square: The Hassana Dome is located right at the start of the Cairo-Alexandria Desert Highway. It is the smallest of the country’s natural protectorates, measuring just one square kilometer. Still, it serves as a specialized museum for different geological formations. While in the capital, also check out the Petrified Forest on the borders of the southern suburb of Maadi, home to a forest of dense rocky tree trunks that belong to the Oligocene epoch.

All the way down the North Coast lies Omayed, in Marsa Matruh. A medium-sized protectorate of 700 square kilometers, it is home to some 170 species of plants, of which more than 70 are known for their therapeutic qualities.

While visiting the monuments and ancient wonders of Luxor and Aswan, make time to squeeze in a trip to the area’s unique set of protectorates. The north hosts the vibrant Lake Borolos, a year-round haven for wild birds; rent a sailboat for the day for an unforgettable experience.

Birdwatchers, head straight to Lake Qaran and the dazzling twin islands of Saluga and Ghazal. Located in Aswan, the first is home to a vast number of flora and fauna, making it a true Eden amidst the roaring Nile (for more on birdwatching, see page 130).

Moving just a few steps away from the Nile, nature lovers can bask in the amazingly green pastures of Wadi Al-Allaqa, a large dry river that once rose from the Red Sea hills. After the construction of the High Dam and creation of Lake Nasser, Wadi Al-Allaqa became partially flooded with water. Aside from its pasture-like features, it contains an assortment of over 90 exotic plant species.

The Details

Several dive centers and excursion operators arrange for Samadai day trips. Recommended is Aquarius Diving Centre (tel: (012) 248-8062/(010) 585-1189). Note that a $15 entry fee (for both Egyptians and foreigners) has been levied by management; the fee is collected by the tour operator as part of the total excursion charge.

Fustat Wadi El-Gemal currently offers camel safaris to Wadi El-Gemal ranging from a standard half-day to tailored overnight trips. For prices and reservations contact www.wadielgemal.com or call (012) 100-1109/240-5132.

Zarzora Expeditions runs long-haul desert expeditions in the Western Desert. For prices and reservations, visit www.zarzora.com or contact Ahmed El-Mestekawy at (010) 118-8221/100-1109.

Badawiya Expeditions and Travel runs camel and jeep safaris in the Western Desert and specializes specifically in the White Desert. Check out their lodging facility in Farafra Oasis. For details on prices and reservations, visit www.badawiya.com or contact their Cairo office at (02) 575-8076.

For more information about Egypt’s protected areas, contact the Nature Protection Central Department of the EEAA at (02) 524-8792 or e-mail protectorates@eeaa.gov.eg. et