For the past couple of years, Turkey has been the destination of choice for Egyptians. Blending history with stunning land and rugged mountainscapes, it has everything we could ask for: sun, sea, sights and most of all great food and shopping. What’s more, it’s cheap — well, relatively cheap anyway.

Start with Istanbul, a bastion of civilization that contrasts ancient with modern like no other. Walking around the city (the best way to do any real sightseeing) is like walking into the past. For an introduction, stop by Sultanahment, the heart of Old Istanbul. First, visit the Topkapi Museum, which started off as one palace and ended up becoming a whole series of them. The edifice is so huge that the authorities have decided to open only some of it to the public. Even with this limitation, it would be challenging to tour the entire place in just one visit.

While you’re standing in line to pay the $10 (depending on the season) entrance fee, take a good look at the fountain of Sultan Ahmet III, dating back to the eighteenth century. Inside, numerous courtyards —where severed heads of traitors are thankfully no longer displayed— wind their way around towers and what was once a public area housing a mosque, hospital, bakery, mint and servant accommodations.

Move on to see the Church of Hagia Eirene (one of the oldest in Constantinople and the only one in Istanbul with its atrium still fully intact), the Tiled Pavilion and the Archaeological Museum. A guided tour is preferable if you want to navigate displays easily and quickly —there really is a lot to see— and you’ll need one to enter the Harem section, which has a separate $10 fee. Here you can see the lodgings of the eunuchs who once guarded the sultan, his mother and his slew of concubines. Young princes also had quarters here, furnished with their own concubines. The museum is open 9am–5pm, closed Tuesdays.

There isn’t really much that’s blue about the Blue Mosque. The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet I has taken on the name, the ‘Blue Mosque’ because part of the interior is walled with blue tiles — but you can forget about seeing them, as they’re all on the inaccessible upper level. Blue or not, the mosque is an architectural masterpiece, with six daunting minarets and a great cascade of domes. Entrance is free, but note that the mosque still serves its religious function and is closed to non-worshippers around prayer times.

A hop, skip and a jump away is the magnificent Hagia Sophia, one of the most impressive edifices ever constructed. Highlighting a number of innovative architectural features, it was commissioned by the Emperor Justinian in 537 AD and built on the site of Byzantium’s acropolis, where it arguably became the most important church in the world. Also check out the Hippodrome, Sunken Palace Cistern and various smaller museums.

After so much touring your stomach will be growling, but don’t worry as the area is packed with restaurants. First-time visitors never complain, but seasoned travelers find the area over-priced, touristy and a few steps removed from the authentic Turkish cuisine they desire. To sample that, head for the Bosphorus district, where East meets West. The shores of the maritime highway are dotted with eateries, most of them seafood stops.

For a break from all the sightseeing and eating, you can travel on a traditional ferryboat ($5) from Eminouno and cruise up the Bosphorus. Be sure to get to the ferry early —at least 30 minutes before departure— so you can get a good seat. The ferry fills up quickly in summer, particularly on weekends.

For shopping, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar lives up to its name. It’s the largest covered market in the city, where you’ll find the most exquisite handmade carpets, glazed tiles, leather goods and alabaster ware as well as copper, brass and pottery items. Keep your hand on your wallet (pickpockets abound) and prepare to bargain hard. You’re sure to walk off with a bundle of treasures; just keep a few tricks up your sleeve if you don’t want to spend every last penny.

The first tip is to never show extreme interest in any one item, try to pretend you’re walking away, unhappy with the price. The second tip is to actually walk away. As you look around, you’ll get a better feel for the prices and variety available.

Also visit the Egyptian Spice Market (we’re not kidding — that’s what it’s called) for spices and fragrances. Here you’ll find the country’s national delicacy: Turkish delights. Sinful in calorie count, they come in a million and one flavors, colors and shapes. These delightful edibles can be found on sale at every other store.

The Details

For five-star pampering, you can’t beat the Hyatt Regency in Taksim (tel: +90 (212) 368-1234), where rooms are in the $230 range, or the S-shaped Conrad (tel: +90 (212) 227-3000), where rates are slightly lower at $200. Or, opt for a ‘special class’ hotel like the Ayasofya Pansiyonlari (tel: +90 (212) 513-3660), in the heart of the Old City. This complex of 10 mansions once housed high-ranking officials who weren’t allowed to lodge at the Topkapi Palace. Ask for a front room (back rooms don’t have much of a view). Expect to pay around 180 a night. For a good price combined with quality, try the Crowne Plaza Istanbul (book online at www.crowneplaza.com) which has rooms starting at $150 per night. When you move on from Istanbul to the nation’s capital, a good choice is the Sheraton Hotel & Convention Center Ankara (www.starwoodhotels.com), which has rooms from $155 per night and up.

EgyptAir flies daily to Istanbul at 11:40pm but only has rates for 30-day tickets (LE 1,695). Travel agents will book you much cheaper fares, especially if you go for a package holiday. Just about every other local tour operator offers Turkey packages (look up established operators such as Misr Travel, Emeco, Thomas Cook and Abercrombie & Kent). Most three-star trips will cost around LE 1,800. Call individual agents for rates and details.

If you want to make your own way around Istanbul, contact national operators Jasminne Tours (www.jasminnetour.com, (tel: +90 (212) 526-4547) or Ezop Travel (www.ezoptravel.com, +90 (212) 292-8170) for tour prices and details. If you’re a motor fan, book your holiday around the end of August when you can catch the Turkish leg of the Grand Prix. In its second year, the race is once again scheduled for August 25, 2006. Hit the internet to check out package tours at discounted rates.

Online Hotel Reservations

Accor: www.accorhotels.com

Concorde Hotels & Resorts: www.concordehotels.com

Conrad Hotels: www.conradhotels1.hilton.com

Crowne Plaza Hotels & Resorts: www.crowneplaza.com

Desert Rose:

www.desertrose-resort.com

Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts: www.fourseasons.com

El-Gouna: www.elgouna.com

Hilton: www.hilton.com

Hyatt International: www.hyatt.com

Iberotel Hotels & Resorts: www.iberotel.com

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts: www.ichotelsgroup.com

Le Meridien: www.lemeridien.com

Marriott: www.marriott.com

Millenium Hotels & Resorts: www.milleniumhotels.com

M?venpick Hotels & Resorts: www.moevenpick-hotels.com

Oberoi Hotels & Resorts: www.oberoihotels.com

Pyramisa Hotels & Cruises: www.pyramisaegypt.com

Radisson Hotels & Resorts: www.radisson.com

Radisson SAS Hotels & Resorts: www.radissonsas.com

Renaissance Hotels: www.marriott.com/renaissancehotels

The Ritz-Carlton: www.ritzcarlton.com

Sheraton Hotels & Resorts: www.sheraton.com

Sonesta Hotels & Resorts: www.sonesta.com

Steigenberger Hotel Group:

www.el-gouna.steigenberger.com

Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide:www.starwoodhotels.com

Taba Heights: www.tabaheights.com et