Once ancient Thebes, the City of a Hundred Gates has aged with impeccable grace. The recent discovery of a tomb containing seven sarcophagi at Luxor’s Valley of the Kings, the first of its kind in about 80 years, has already boosted the city’s tourism numbers — as if tourists needed another excuse to visit one of the world’s most archaeologically significant locales.

Start with a visit to the awe-inspiring Karnak temple. Once upon a Pharaonic time, everyone was allowed to stand in the first of its three courtyards, while only the nobles were granted access to the second, and the third and most sacred was solely reserved for the High Priest and the Pharaoh. Attend the daily multilingual sound and light show (LE 33 for non-Egyptians and LE 11 for Arabic shows, www.sound-light.egypt.com) and learn the story of Thebes by the Sacred Lake.

The Luxor temple, which preserves the remains of a church on its grounds, also houses the mosque of Sufi Sheikh Yusuf Abu Al-Hajjaj. Other perennial tourist favorites include the temple of Hatshepsut and the grand tombs in the Valley of the Nobles, the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens — all well worth the visit. Touring the antiquities is lots of fun, but expect to walk a lot and stand even more.

On the east bank of the Nile, Sheraton Luxor Resort’s ideal location makes it the perfect place to stay if you want to explore Luxor’s treasures. Get up super early to avoid the heat and head straight for the sights, all of which can easily be reached from the hotel. Nothing is better than a relaxing sunset dip in the pool after a day’s arduous sightseeing.

On the West bank, Deir El-Medina (the Valley of Artisans) is where workers from the royal tombs lived, and the remains of the tomb decorations are still worth seeing. Other must-sees include the Ancient Egyptian art at the Luxor Museum (9am-1pm and 5-10pm in summer; 9am-1pm and 4-9pm in winter), the Mummification Museum (where you’ll see preserved fish, cats, crocs as well as tools, open 9am-1pm and 4pm-9pm), and the Ramasseum, where the remains of the ancient statue that inspired Shelley’s poem “Ozymandias” can be seen; the head is at the British Museum. The Colossi of Memnon (the singing statues) — although they’ve gone mute post renovations — are still stunning. The movement of wind through cracks in the statues accounted for the eerie whistling that can no longer be heard.

But Luxor is not only about ancient monuments: hone your haggling skills on a serene sunset felucca ride along the banks of the Nile or a hantoor (carriage) ride into the heart of the city. Make sure to dine at a restaurant by the Nile, then hit the cafés for a shisha to end your night.

No trip to Luxor is complete without a dash to Aswan, which sits majestically along the banks of what many regard as the Nile at its most beautiful. Its forbidding summer heat makes it an ideal winter destination where you can spend your days walking along the Corniche or relaxing on a felucca ride at the end of a long day of sightseeing.

Start with Elephantine Island, which dates to the pre-dynastic period. So named because the boulders off its shore are said to resemble bathing elephants — and for the trade in ivory that continued there through 2600 BC — attractions include the Nilometer, used to measure the river’s water levels. On the west bank, visit the Aga Khan Mausoleum, where the spiritual leader of the Ismaili sect is buried. The impressive pink granite structure was built in 1950 and it is said that, until she died in 2000, his widow placed a red rose on his tomb every day during her annual three-month stay in Aswan.

The mausoleum is not open to the public, but you can get a good view of it from Elephantine. Also check out the extensive Yebu ruins on the southern end of the island and the Nubian villages of Siou and Koti on the northern shore.

Nearby Kitchener’s Island is a feast for the senses. This botanical garden filled with exotic plants and trees imported from all over the world was named after Lord Kitchener, who was given the island as a reward for his successful campaign in Sudan in the 1890s. Take a boat to reach it, but avoid going on Fridays when it is swarmed with picnicking crowds.

Two must-sees in the area: The Temple of Philae in Aswan and the Great Temple of Ramses II in Abu Simbel. The island of Philae housed the temple complex of Isis, which was disassembled and reconstructed by UNESCO between 1972 and 1980, moving 20 meters higher to the nearby Agilkia Island to save it from the swamps created by the High Dam (which happens to be a major tourist attraction itself). The temple can be reached by a short boat trip.

A trip to the Nubian Museum is a must; its displays include over 3,000 antiquities spanning from the Pharaonic and Roman, through to the Coptic and Islamic eras. Across the street near the Basma Hotel (tel: (097) 231-0901, Egyptians LE 520, foreigners $169 including breakfast) look at the permanent display of sculptures from the Annual Aswan Sculpture Symposium, featuring works by both Egyptian and foreign artists. Also see the unfinished Obelisk at the ancient granite quarries. Folkloric dance troupes perform at the Aswan Cultural Palace (Corniche El-Nil).

Make certain you check out the Monastery of St. Simeon, built in the seventh century and one of the best-preserved original Christian strongholds (Deir Amba Samaan, admission LE 15, open 7am–5pm daily). The two-level fortress-like structure includes a church, shops, bakery and stunning views. Also worth a glimpse: more Pharaonic tombs than you can shake a stick at, including those of the Nobles, Mekhu & Sabni, Sarenput II Harkhuf, Pepinakht and Sarenpit I. The west bank tomb of local Sheikh Kubbet Al-Hawa offers stunning views.

Aswanis themselves are the highlights of a visit here. Mostly Nubians, they are as kind-hearted and hospitable as they come. The serene smiles of the little boat boys in their spotless white galabeyyas make you want to move permanently to this jewel of a city. It’s a delight to haggle with vendors in one of the most engaging souqs outside of Cairo, and Aswan’s market street overflows with colorful, tempting and aromatic spices. It is most famous for henna, karakade and sun-roasted peanuts — you’ll come home with bagfuls.

The Details

ASWAN: The Sofitel Old Cataract Hotel (tel: (097) 231-6000), where a Nile-view double room will cost you LE 850 including breakfast (374 for foreigners) is nothing short of stunning. Cheaper garden-view rooms go for LE 460 (199 for foreigners). If you can’t afford to stay there or can’t get a booking, be sure to tour the place — it’s an architectural masterpiece whose 1902 restaurant with Moorish columns and arches serves local and international dishes.

On the northern end of Elephantine Island, try the Aswan Oberoi Hotel (tel: (097) 231-4666), which has its own ferry for guests, a great view, large rooms and spa doubles are LE 300 including breakfast, $130 for foreigners. Its Orangerie serves up an Indian and Continental menu in a modern setting. The New Cataract (tel: (097) 231-6002), right next to the Old Cataract, offers stunning views. Nile-view rooms here will set you back LE 280 ($176 for foreigners; LE 220 or $126 for city-view doubles).

For a great Nubian meal, try the Nubian Restaurant (on Eassa Island, tel: (097) 230-2465). It’s upscale and serves alcohol. The Nubian House behind Basma Hotel (doubles here go for LE 450 with breakfast, $120 for foreigners) on Aswan Hill is more moderate and has a great view of Elephantine Island.

LUXOR: The Sofitel Winter Palace (tel: (095) 238-0422) was built as a palace in the early 1800s. Rooms in the nicer Old Palace Wing come in three categories: Nile deluxe, standard Nile-view and garden-view and go for LE 850, LE 525 and LE 460 respectively, including breakfast ($326, $240 and $222 for foreigners, respectively). Also popular is the Jolie Ville M?venpick, Crocodile Island (tel: (095) 237-4855) a hotel on a private island surrounded by the Nile (doubles are LE 380 for Egyptians, $150 for non-Egyptians; both prices include breakfast). Worth a look is the Sheraton Luxor Resort (tel: (095) 237-4544) where doubles including breakfast are LE 330 for Egyptians and around $80 sans breakfast for foreigners. If you opt for the Sheraton, take a leisurely walk around the beautiful gardens overlooking the Nile then make a difficult choice between dining options. Italian, anyone? La Mamma (a branch of the Cairo favorite) never fails to please. In the mood for Indian? Check out delicious authentic favorites at Agra. At the Sofitel Karnak (tel: (095) 237-8025), doubles are priced at LE 420 half-board for Egyptians; 120 for foreigners. At the Iberotel Luxor (tel: (095) 238-0923), recently acquired from Novotel, Nile view rooms go for LE 330 and $115 for foreigners, while standard rooms are LE 280 and $96 for foreigners.

ASWAN: EgyptAir offers daily morning and evening flights between Cairo and Aswan. Tickets cost LE 1,433 for foreigners and LE 571-739 for Egyptians and foreign residents. Sleeper trains depart from Cairo at 8pm and arrive in Aswan at 8:15am. Rates are $53 per person in a double cabin (or equivalent in LE for Egyptians), $74 in a single cabin. Regular first- and second-class cost LE 77 and LE 42 from Ramses Station. Inside Aswan, hire a taxi for a whole day to take you to Philae Temple, the Nubian Museum, the Obelisk and the souq — it’s the cheaper alternative at just under LE 100 per day. et