Tucked in the heart of South Sinai’s mountain range, St. Catherine’s village is never overlooked but often underestimated. Sheltered in the lap of one of history’s most famous mountains, this UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site draws thousands of visitors each year — yet they rarely stay more than 12 hours.

The draw is Mt. Sinai (Gabal Musa), the peak on which the prophet Moses received the Ten Commandments from God. Each night, the faithful and the simply fascinated set out on a gently winding camel trail to the peak. Bring a flashlight to make sure of your footing and the direction. If you change your mind about walking, Bedouins with their camels are ready to give you a lift.

The more direct and strenuous route up (or down) the mountain is the 3,000 Steps of Penance, built by the monastery’s monks. A third and far less crowded route, accessible only with a guide, starts behind the village and winds up the back of the mountain to converge with the camel trail near the top of the Steps of Penance. Regardless of your chosen path, you still face 750 steps to the peak; the reward is an intensely moving sunrise.

If you head down right after the sun comes up, you’ll have time to visit the sixth-century monastery. St. Catherine’s Monastery has survived 1,400 years largely undisturbed by winning protection from the leaders of the day. Recognizing the site’s significance to monotheism, the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) issued a written promise granting protected status to the monks under Muslim rule, as did the Crusaders, several Ottoman emperors, and, more recently, Napoleon Bonaparte.

Because of its sheltered history and strong ties to Europe, the monastery has amassed a library that scholars say is second only to the Vatican, with 3,000 ancient manuscripts and some 2,000 icons, the earliest dating back to the sixth century. Selections of these treasures are displayed in the gallery, and though entrance to the monastery is free, admission is charged for this particular exhibit.

While the monastic order was dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, the monastery itself is permanently associated with St. Catherine. Born a pagan in fourth-century Alexandria, Catherine converted to Christianity and was tortured and executed for her beliefs. Christian tradition says angels transported her body to the peak that now bears her name, for it was there in the seventh century that monks found what they believe are the saint’s earthly remains. The relics are sequestered in the monastery, but you can visit a small ossuary, where the bones of past monks rest in somewhat tidy stacks.

St. Catherine’s is an active Greek Orthodox monastery; out of respect for the holy sites visitors should not wear shorts or tank tops inside the premises. Limited portions of the site are only open 9-11:45am, and the monastery is closed on Orthodox holidays. Those wishing to worship can make special arrangements to attend Liturgy (4am) or Vespers (4pm) prayers.

Gabal Musa is the most famous of the Sinai range, but as a Bedouin once pointed out, “We have other mountains.” Mt. Catherine, the highest point on the peninsula at 2,641 meters, offers a six-hour guided trek along a groomed and occasionally steep trail. Another day hike takes you up Gabal Deir, with a postcard-perfect vista of the monastery nestled in the slopes beneath you.

The village is also a starting point for multi-day safaris throughout the St. Catherine Natural Protectorate, 5,750 square kilometers of desert mountain wilderness. Because of its protected status, all hikes — other than up Mt. Sinai — must be accompanied by a local Bedouin guide.

The Details

Long-stay tourist amenities are limited in this humble village. The Bedouin-style camps are popular with trekkers in town for guided hikes and safaris. Fox In The Desert Camp (tel: (069) 347-0344) offers rooms starting at LE 15 and simple, nutritious meals that taste amazing after a long day on the mountain.

The monastery (tel: (069) 347-0353) has a few hotel-style guest rooms; proximity is the advantage here. For those looking for a higher-end accommodation, or at least attached bathrooms, there are a few 2- and 3-star hotels in the village. The four-star Morgenland Village (Cairo office: tel: (02) 794-5724), complete with swimming pool, is discreetly tucked in a valley near Gabal Deir; residents pay LE 150 per person in a double; foreigners pay $35.

Dining options in the village are no-frills, limited to local restaurants with standard fare.

St. Catherine’s Village is six hours from Cairo; The East Delta Company runs one bus each day (LE 37 one way), leaving at 11:30am. The return bus leaves at 6am, so independent climbers must either arrange other transportation or spend the night in the village. Most overnight treks are launched from the touristed coast, a sleepless-in-Sinai circuit that includes a two-to-three hour van ride each way and just enough time to climb the mountain and tour the monastery.

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