Backed against the weathered desert mountains, the 70 kilometers of South Sinai coastline between Nuweiba and Taba offers nearly every beach vacation imaginable. From starlight camping to candlelight dinners, from Eagle Creek backpacks to Gucci carry-ons, you’ll find a suitable place to kick back and relax.

The city of Nuweiba is divided into three parts. First, there is the Port, where the bus station, banks, supermarkets and the Hilton Coral Resort are found. Next is Nuweiba City, a sparse settlement with a choice of accommodations, a lively bazaar, tourist shops and inexpensive eateries. Then there’s Tarabin — once a peaceful setting with bamboo and concrete huts lining the coast, Tarabin has since become a bustling tourist center that caters to the budget beach bum.

Nuweiba is an ideal launch point for Sinai desert jeep or camel safaris, including a Bedouin-led hike through the Colored Canyon or camping at Ain Hodra. Habiba Village (tel: (069) 350-0770/565) runs a camel riding school, offering a three-day course covering the care, feeding, loading and riding of camels, as well as lessons in local flora, fauna and Bedouin culture and survival (www.sinai4you.com/crs).

The coastline from Nuweiba to Taba (750 km from Cairo) is one of Sinai’s most picturesque, with vast stretches of golden beach and dramatic mountain backdrops. It’s back to the basics out here, with camping facilities ranging from a sleeping bag on the beach to a straw hut to eco-friendly stone communal areas. You can wake up with the sunrise, then plunge straight into the sea a few meters away. Catch up on your reading or party with new friends around a campfire; either way, you’re bound for a relaxing break from the big city.

After you unwind and suntan, you can always drive up the coast toward Taba, where life is much more posh and stylish at Taba Heights, the newest resort town. This rapidly developing area comes complete with hotel bars, restaurants, a medical clinic and a variety of aquatic sports. Barely a stone’s throw from the shore is Gezirat Faroun — Pharoah’s Island — with a remarkably intact Crusader-era fortress that is open for exploration.

The Details

In Nuweiba, check out the Hilton Nuweiba Coral Resort (tel: (069) 352-0320) and the Sonesta Beach Resort (tel: (069) 356-0200), about 14 km outside the city. The coast between Nuweiba and Taba is littered with informal camps featuring bamboo huts and tepees, as well as more established accommodations including the stunning Basata (tel: (069) 350-0480/1) and Bawaki Beach resort (tel: (069) 350-0470 (Sinai) or (02) 574-5273).

Taba Heights (www.tabaheights.com, tel: (02) 305-7843) offers four- and five-star accommodation and dining, complete with spas, a water sports center and a casino. An 18-hole golf course is due to open in October 2006. Lodging options at the resort complex include Hyatt Regency Taba Heights (tel: (069) 358-0234), Taba Heights Marriott Beach Resort (tel: (069) 358-0100), Sofitel Taba Heights (tel: (069) 358-0801), and The Three Corners El-Wekala (tel: (069) 358-0151/2/3). The InterContinental Taba Heights (tel: (069) 358-0064) is due to open in April. Room rates in the region for a double start around $50-$140.

In Taba City, upscale options include the Radisson SAS Resort (tel: (069) 355-0000) and Holiday Inn Resort Taba (tel: (069) 356-0000). At press time, the Taba Hilton had reopened its Nelson Village chalet complex, but the main hotel building is still under renovation.

Outside the resort venues, Pizzina in Nuweiba City has great pizza and takeaway. The city’s Bedouin Restaurant offers local food and ambience and Dr. Shishkebab offers a competent assortment on the grill. In Tarabin, try Aid Abu Gomaa Fish Restaurant. All beach camps serve food at their main huts. In Taba, check out the fish and oriental restaurants at La Playa.

Direct buses to Taba (7 hours) from Cairo and Sharm El-Sheikh (3 hours) run several times a day. et