By far the most popular holiday destination in Egypt, Sharm El-Sheikh can easily be described as a classic, and it’s not difficult to understand why: Provided you steer away from national holidays, when things can get a little too crowded, you can never go wrong with this seaside paradise. Whether you’re into diving, water sports or just sunning yourself on the beach, it’s one of the most idyllic vacation spots in the world.

Perched on the southern-most tip of the Sinai Peninsula, Sharm is actually a series of bays nestled in between graceful mountain ranges offering a picturesque backdrop that mesmerizes local and international tourists alike.

The most famous and developed of Sharm’s bays is Na’ama, where pioneering hotels, resorts and diving centers first took up residence in the mid-1980s when Sinai returned to Egypt. No one imagined at the time that the handful of original dive centers and primitive hotels would, 20 years later, become a part of the bustling commercial center that is now home to the likes of McDonalds, Pizza Hut, KFC, Peking, Hard Rock Café and Little Buddha.

Don’t worry if you have left anything behind in Cairo: Na’ama Bay now has its own mall, with retailers including Nike, Puma and Mobaco as well as dozens of other apparel, souvenir and home accessories shops and supermarkets begging to cater to your every need (at Sharm prices, of course).

At all hours of the day and night, Na’ama is lively with tourists who frequent its legendary promenade, which stretches from one end of the bay to the other. Most of the hotels have set up outdoor dining areas-slash-snack bars along the waterfront, where you can enjoy lunch and dinner, as well as the traditional shisha and tea.

But diving enthusiasts claim the real attraction lies beneath the surface of the crystal blue waters. Hundreds of diving centers in the area attract adventurers to the underwater wonders of the Red Sea, which boasts some of the world’s most spectacular coral and marine life. It is relatively quick, easy and inexpensive to obtain an open water diver’s license from one of Sharm’s PADI-licensed diving centers.

For certified divers, excursions are available from Na’ama Bay to Sharm El-Sheikh’s best known dive sites, which include Ras Nusrani, White Knight and Ras Umm Sid, famous for its magnificent fan corals. Ras Mohamed National Park and the Straits of Tiran are also must-sees. Divers can experience the famous drop-off and amazing drift dives. If snorkeling is more your speed, there are also an abundance of shallow water reefs around Sharm’s bays.

Six kilometers north of Na’ama Bay is Shark’s Bay, a quieter, less-developed area ideal for divers or diving students who prefer a less commercial atmosphere. The beach at Shark’s Bay is a primitive version of Na’ama, where you can relax on the sand with a book without interruptions or distractions.

If it’s luxury you are after, Sharm El-Sheikh now has an abundance of resorts that offer guests the very best in accommodations, dining and relaxation. The Jolie Ville M?venpick Golf Resort, with its 18-hole golf course, club house and spa, is attracting golf enthusiasts from around the world, while the Ritz-Carlton sits in the midst of 100,000 square meters of lush landscape. Famous for its luxurious cliff-top spa, the Ritz can be a vacation in and of itself. The Four Seasons Sharm El-Sheikh is also an amazing choice for those who want to bypass the bustling Na’ama Bay and pamper themselves in style. Exquisite guest rooms are clustered on a hillside above a dazzling view of the Red Sea.

When the sun sets, Sharm comes to life with its thousands of glittering lights reflected in the still, black waters of the sea. If you’re not too busy with night dives, there are plenty of evening outings to accommodate a range of tastes. Nighttime entertainment at most hotels and resorts will undoubtedly prove corny for Egyptians and resident expats, but will delight many foreign tourists.

For years, the center of Sharm El-Sheikh’s nightlife has been the Sanafir complex, the hotel-cum-entertainment zone that has been home to Bus Stop, Sharm’s coolest pub turned dance club and the now-defunct roof-top café, a past favorite for mellow star gazers and shisha lovers. Sanafir has now been transformed into Pacha, as in the Ibiza Pacha franchise, complete with Red Cherry Logo, wild house parties, pulsing techno music and hundreds of scantily clad partiers dancing till dawn on the huge outdoor dance floor, inside swimming pools and on top of stages and platforms scattered throughout.

If you haven’t been to Sharm recently, you’ll likely find the scene inside Pacha shocking compared to the laid back atmosphere in the Sanafir of yesteryear. Sanafir owner’s Adly El Mestekawy, a Sharm veteran, began his business in 1982 by building huts and a snack bar for divers. From there, it evolved into a unique hotel with white-domed roofs built on different levels surrounding a central courtyard. By 1999, the central courtyard was transformed into an open air dance floor with a capacity to accommodate 3,000 people and the hotel into a nightclub that hosted “House Nation” parties with international DJ’s at least once a week.

In April 2004, the transformation was complete as the first Pacha in Africa and the Middle East opened its doors.

“Pacha Sharm has the essence of Ibiza with a twist of 1001 Arabian Nights,” says Maya Challita, Mestekawy’s wife and Pacha Sharm’s marketing director. Indeed, this place is not for the faint at heart. If techno music isn’t your thing, you can escape to the adjacent Bus Stop, which is still intact with its own dance floor and DJ, who plays a variety of hip-hop, R&B and top-40 hits.

As for the star gazers, they should clear the area and proceed next door to the Camel Dive Club and Hotel for a blast from the past. This is one Sharm original that has not shed its skin. In place since 1986, though the Camel Dive Club has evolved, it has not changed. Owners Hesham and Sameh Gabr successfully grew their establishment from a basic dive club to a well-established brand that has become synonymous with Sharm.

Today, the Camel Dive Club has a hotel, the Camel Bar (offering both indoor and outdoor venues with rooftop cushions and shishas — a favorite with old timers), the Chameleon Restaurant, and the latest addition, the Tandoori Indian restaurant, arguably the best Indian food in Sharm.

The Details

Some of your best bets include the Hyatt Regency, five minutes away from Na’ama Bay (tel: (069) 360-1234), with ultra-helpful and respectful staff, blissful quiet and great food. The Savoy Sharm El-Sheikh Resort on White Knight Beach is part of the Ras Mohamed National Park complex (call their Cairo office at (02) 263-4273/79/57). The Ritz-Carlton (tel: (069) 366-1919) and Four Seasons Sharm El-Sheikh (tel: (096) 360-3555) offer the ultimate in Sharm luxury. The Jolie Ville M?venpick Resort is a sure bet for its fantastically consistent service and central location on Na’ama Bay (tel: (069) 360-0100/1/2).

In Ras Nusrani, try the Conrad International Sharm El-Sheikh Resort (tel: (069) 367-0585). In Na’ama Bay proper, the Hilton Fayrouz Village (tel: (069) 360-0136/141) was one of the first hotels to open; it still occupies the largest and most central position on the beach. Also worth a look is the Sofitel (tel: (069) 360-0081/90), perched atop a cliff on the northernmost edge of Na’ama Bay. The Sheraton Sharm (tel: (069) 360-2070) is blends into the landscape.

New to the scene is the Renaissance Golden View Beach Resort (tel: (069) 366-4694).

Other options include the InterContinental Garden Reef Resort (tel: (069) 360-0006), Radisson Sharm (tel: (069) 371-0315), and the Pyramisa Resort & Villas in Shark’s Bay (tel: (069) 361-1091)

The Camel Dive Club and Hotel (tel: (069) 360-0700/1/2) remains the most famous dive center in Sharm. In many ways, Sharm has now surpassed Cairo in the quality and variety of its dining and entertainment venues. One impressive newcomer is the Little Buddha Bar, which opened in Na’ama Bay in April 2005. The sister venue of the original Buddha Bar Paris, Little Buddha Sharm will not disappoint. This restaurant, sushi bar and lounge has a very diverse Fusion, Japanese, French, Asian and Pacific gourmet menu that is by far more sophisticated than anything Sharm has ever had to offer. After midnight the music heats up a bit as the mood gradually changes from chill out to party. (For reservations, call (069) 360-1030. Open only for dinner starting from 6pm.)

Sala Thai at the Hyatt Regency (open only for dinner) is one of the best Thai restaurants in Egypt. We recommend dining al fresco on the terrace for an unforgettable view of the sea and the mountains.

Rangoli (open only for dinner), the Sofitel’s Indian restaurant, is a longtime favorite with its delicious Indian delicacies and amazing panoramic view of Na’ama Bay, but it appears to have a new rival, the Camel Dive Club’s Tandoori. Less posh than Rangoli, Tandoori now has a cult following with Indian food lovers. It also offers an elevated outdoor seating area that distances diners from Na’ama Bay’s noisy main thoroughfare.

The Sinai Star is a traditional seafood joint in downtown Sharm El-Sheikh. No menus, no gimmicks, just quality seafood in a very basic warehouse setting. More exotic is El Fanar, perched atop a cliff in Ras Umm Sid, a unique eatery serving good Italian fare and fresh seafood.

If you’re looking for stunning seafood but a little more pampering in the service department than Sinai Star, check out Safsafa, in the Na’ama Bay shopping complex next to the Hard Rock Café. Seafood here is ultra-fresh and prepared exactly to your liking — even if the item isn’t on the menu.

Fly to Sharm El-Sheikh on EgyptAir, which has several flights per day with the number depending on the day of the week and the season. There are at least five buses a day from most major Cairo bus terminals; call bus operators for details.

We’ve purposefully stayed away from quoting prices here. Quite simply, they fluctuate wildly and far more than at any other destination in Egypt. Call ahead for quotes, be prepared to give credit card numbers immediately to secure bookings (or rush to Cairo offices to make a cash down payment), and always inquire whether the rate you’re quoted includes tax and service. et