With its year-round sunshine, water sports and exciting nightlife, Hurghada has become one of the nation’s top resort destinations. Basically a long stretch of resorts that somehow feel less contrived than Sharm El-Sheikh, Hurghada retains elements of the small Egyptian town it once was.

Today, Hurghada can be divided into three main areas. The northern residential area of Al-Dahar is home to most budget accommodations and has a colorful souq. Sigala, the fastest developing part of town, with its resorts along the coastline and its budget hotels inland, is separated from Al-Dahar by the sandy mountain of Gabal Al-Afish. Just south of Sigala is the resort strip where all the new, mostly five-star resorts, have sprung up along the road to Safaga.

Sheraton Street, one of the oldest thoroughfares in Hurghada, is famous for restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets and lively nightspots. It’s about six kilometers from the Old Port of Sigala, where ferries depart for Sharm El-Sheikh and Duba, Saudi Arabia. You can catch the luxury high-speed ferry to Sharm (one and a half hours) four days a week for LE 125 per person one way (LE 250 for foreigners). The boat to Duba (a three-hour trip) leaves three days a week at 10am (tickets go for LE 325). For reservations and more information, contact Sherif Tours at Sand Beach (tel: (065) 354-5147).

The average tourist’s primary activity in Hurghada is finding a place in the sun alongside the throngs of other visitors. Most five-star hotels and resorts have private beaches, and the local public beach is reasonable and offers loungers for rental. There are also a handful of private beaches including Papas Beach Club and Old Vic Beach, which also have bars and food and offer admission for LE 10 per head. Outside town, resorts including Magawish Tourist Village, Jasmin Village and Coral Beach offer day admission for LE 50-60. After a day in the sun, there’s nothing better than relaxing in a bath with scented flowers, which you can do at the Oberoi Sahl Hashish (tel: (065) 344-0777), 30 minutes from Hurghada airport. The hotel has its own stretch of coastline and the sunken tubs in each room overlook the gardens.

But there’s plenty more to do in Hurghada than suntan. You can go snorkeling or diving; local seaside dive sites are particularly good for beginners, though they may not be challenging for experienced divers. The best reefs are reached by boat, making island hopping excursions on Shedwan, Shaab El-Erg, Shaab Abu Ramada, Careless Reef and Abu Rimata (nicknamed ‘The Aquarium’) the best way for advanced divers to explore rich coral life. The Giftun Islands, a Red Sea protectorate, are also recommended. You can make arrangements for a one-day excursion through your hotel, but can often get better prices at the Sheraton Marina, where trips leave early in the morning and return in the early afternoon. Forgot your underwater camera? Rent a semi-pro model for 20 per day at Focus camera shop on Sheraton Street.

Windsurfing, water-skiing, paragliding, para-skiing and kite-surfing are also available at the major resorts. If fishing is your thing, you can venture into the deeper waters of Gobal, Towal and Om Gaamar for some serious trawling, deep-sea fishing or casting. The International Fishing Competition, sponsored by the Egyptian Fishing Federation, is held off Hurghada’s shores every February.

Egypt Today Archives The coastal village neighbors five-star resorts

At Sinbad Beach Resort (tel: (065) 344-4688) you can board a yellow submarine that holds up to 44 people and explore the wonders of the deep blue sea 22 meters below the surface for LE 100 ($50 for foreigners, kids ages 2-12 pay half price). You can also try the sci-fi bubble contraption called the Aquascope at Hor Palace (tel: (065) 443- 350/710) in which you’ll be submerged in a cabin with nine other people for an hour. Expect to see Moray Eels, Lionfish and maybe even a shark or two. If you prefer to view the vibrant seabeds from a distance, hotels organize outings on glass-bottomed boats at a cost that’s usually around LE 40 per hour per person.

Hotels and travel operators also arrange half-day through five-day desert safaris to visit the southern Red Sea’s mountains and canyons. Choose your favorite transportation: camels, horses, four-wheel ATVs and 4WD vehicles are all offered here. On most trips, you’ll get the chance to visit a Bedouin camp and sip their syrupy sweet tea under the stars.

If that’s not enough to keep you busy, go on and hit the town. Visit the Museum of Marine Biology, open daily 8am–5pm; the entrance fee is LE 5 for tourists, which also includes a ticket for the Red Sea Aquarium, open 9am–10pm daily.

You may prefer to go downtown for meals, a few pints (try the Dutch-run Papa’s Bar on Sheraton Street and Jukebox on the corniche, which offers a nice view and cheap beers). Catch the infamous shows where Russian women dance the night away in their ‘interesting’ costumes (at Calypso on Al-Hadaba St.). The best nightclubs are Black Out, also on Al-Hadaba, where foam is shot over the dancers; Dome at the InterContinental and Galaxy at the Hilton Resort. Many beach clubs also regularly organize parties with European DJs, and the more adventurous might want to try Kalaboush, a club tricked out to resemble a jail.

Check out the local magazines Hurghada Bulletin and Red Sea Life for the latest events — they’re available for free in bars, cafés and most budget hotels and the latter is also online (www.redseapages.com). There isn’t that much available as far as shopping goes, apart from the usual overpriced T-shirts, jewelry and touristy knickknacks. If you’re staying in Hurghada for a while, it’s worth checking out some of the sites around town: Tours can be arranged through travel agents to the Roman fortresses of Bedia and Belih and the Monasteries of St. Anthony and St. Paul, the oldest in Egypt.

The Details

Hurghada has no shortage of resorts. Favorite five-stars include the Desert Rose (tel: (065) 346-0600), the InterContinental Resort and Casino (tel: (065) 326-0700), Sofitel Hurghada Red Sea (tel: (065) 346-4646), not to mention three different Hiltons: the Hurghada Long Beach Resort (tel: (065) 346-1501), Hurghada Plaza (tel: (065) 354-9745) and Hurghada Resort (tel: (065) 346-5036).

Grand Seas Hostmark (tel: (065) 346-0111) offers unlimited leisure options, including canoeing, diving, and a children’s playground. Also check out Also worth considering are Coral Beach (tel: (065) 346-1615), Jasmin Village (tel: (065) 344-6442), Safir Hurghada (tel: (065) 344-2901/4) and Magawish Village (tel: (065) 346-4629). See our listings guide for more hotels and a list of diving centers.

For food, try the Egyptian Corner (Al-Dahar Center, Abdel Aziz Mustafa St.), famed for its basic Egyptian cuisine. Young Kang (Al-Dahar, Sheikh Sabak St.) offers excellent Asian fare. Portofino (Al-Dahar, tel: (065) 354 6250) is a lively Italian restaurant. Al-Sakia (Sigala, tel: (065) 344 2497) offers seafood, international cuisine and views of docked fishing boats from 9am through 5am. Enjoy some serious shepherd’s pie at Norhan, located on the Al-Dahar seaside (Sayyed al-Qarayem St). For an upscale fish meal, head to Fishy Business at the Conrad (tel: (065) 346-0020). Finally, have dessert at La Torta in Al-Dahar Center (tel: (065) 354-9504), which specializes in fresh pastries.

Fly from Cairo to Hurghada Airport on EgyptAir, which runs an average of three flights a day: schedules vary and flights are heavily booked most seasons, so call well in advance for information and reservations. Those with patience can try the Upper Egypt Co. (tel: (02) 419-8533), which runs several buses throughout the day. If you’re hiring a car and driver, expect the trip to cost something in the neighborhood of LE 1,200 one way.

In town, cabs from the airport to Al-Dahar (Downtown) cost a flat fee of LE 25. All upscale resorts have a shuttle-bus service available for guests, but make certain to confirm your trip before departing from Cairo. et