Get a good night’s sleep, drink a few fanageen of strong Turkish coffee and put on sensible shoes: A tour of the cultural capital of the Arab world, while invigorating, is exhausting.

Start with a few museums, since they close at six. Our first stop is Beit Saad El-Khadem wa Effat Nagui (House of Saad El-Khadem and Effat Nagui). The couple, both modern Egyptian artists and now deceased, bequeathed their home to the government, which has turned it into a museum to house their works. Notice the similarities in the artists’ styles, despite the drastic difference in topics and colors. (tel: (02) 258-3703. 12 Karim St., off Selim El-Awwal St., Saraya El-Kobba. Open 10am–4pm, closed Tuesdays, no admission fee.)

Next up is the Mr. and Mrs. Mohamed Mahmoud Khalil Museum in Giza. The only place in Cairo housing a sizable collection of French impressionist works, the palace and collection were also bequeathed to the government by Khalil’s widow. The grounds house the galleries Horizon 1 and 2, which periodically host contemporary exhibitions. (tel: (02) 336-2358/76. 1 Kafour St, Giza. Open 10am–1pm and 5pm–9pm, closed Mondays.)

Years ago, it was difficult to find good modern art in Cairo. The only galleries with the courage to show controversial works were Cairo-Berlin (which has since closed down) and Mashrabia. Today, a number of busy galleries adorn the many streets of Downtown Cairo and Zamalek, all within walking distance of each other. A quick tour of the best of them is how many intellectuals begin their evening. If you start Downtown at Mashrabia, you can walk on to the Townhouse and the Cairo Atelier, then cross to Zamalek for a stop at the Arts Center, Akhnaton galleries, the Zamalek Gallery, Safar Khan, Khan El-Maghraby, Picasso, La Bodega Karim Francis and Extra, to name just a few. If you are already in Zamalek, don’t miss visiting Al-Gezira Arts Center with its many halls. The Center also houses Egypt’s beautiful Islamic Ceramics Museum. Built by Prince Amr Ibrahim, the palace now houses a rare collection of Turkish, Iranian, Fatimid and Islamic Egyptian (Ayyubid, Mamluk, etc) ceramics. (See et guide/listings for addresses and telephone numbers.)

Zamalek and Downtown are also home to Egypt’s foreign cultural centers. Especially active are the Goethe Institute, the French Center for Culture and Cooperation, and the Italian Cultural Center. Check them all out — there are always interesting exhibitions, films, shows and plays (all free) to enjoy. (All open 10am–8pm, addresses and telephone numbers in et guide/listings.)

Also close by is the Beit El-Omma museum, which was opened by First Lady Suzanne Mubarak in 2003. Situated on Saad Zaghloul Street, the museum was once the home of national leader Saad Zaghloul, who started Egypt’s fight for independence against British occupation. Built in 1901, the museum holds all of Zaghloul’s documents, furniture, rugs, photographs and paintings. The museum is a good place to see a number of original works by Egyptian pioneer artists including Ragheb Ayyad and Youssef Kamel. Many of the works and the statues are portraits of the national leader. The beautiful library holds 5,013 books and many rare maps. It also holds a rare copy of Description d’Egypte. A special section of the museum is dedicated to Zaghloul’s wife, Safeyya Zaghloul, who was dubbed Om Al-Masriyyeen (the Mother of the Egyptians) by the Egyptian people. You can see the great lady’s clothes, jewelry and medals.

Mohsen Allam The Islamic Ceramics Museum

Next, head to the Cairo Opera House Grounds on Gezirah Island, where a number of attractions await. Definitely check out the Museum of Modern Egyptian Art for a look at Mahmoud Said’s works. Masterpieces by other great artists such as Mahmoud Mokhtar, Sabri Ragheb, Ragheb Ayyad and Hamed Nada, stud the huge halls. A few meters away is Qasr El-Funoon, another favorite simply for its great architecture. It is currently showing the works of international artists participating in Egypt’s Graphics Triennial. (No fees, open 10am–6pm.)

Since you’re here, check out the Supreme Cultural Council and neighboring Creativity Center, where seminars and shows are sometimes held. A stop at El-Hanager Arts Center is a must for exhibitions and (usually experimental) plays. And there is always something to do at the Opera House’s many halls, be it taking part in a heated seminar, attending a concert, catching the ballet or an opera or watching a documentary. (Check our monthly calendar for details.)

Another must is the 15th-century Beit Zeinab Khatoun and the adjoining Beit El-Harawi (from the 18th century), which lies across a small garden. Located behind Al-Azhar Mosque, the Ottoman-style houses were restored by the French government and turned into cultural centers. Shows, plays, concerts and exhibitions are constantly held there. A new addition to the list of historical properties turned cultural centers is the Palace of Prince Taz, a true architectural gem. The palace lies in the middle of Islamic Cairo, in the busy district of Khalifa. It was built by the Mamluk prince Seifeddin Abdullah Taz bin Katghaj in the 14th century and lies very close to the famous Sabil Omm Abbass. At press time, it was showing a retrospective of the works of the great Egyptian sculptor Adam Henien until April 20. (No fees, open 10am to midnight. Reservations required for large groups.)

Two must-see museums are the Museum of Islamic Art in Bab El-Khoulq and the Coptic Museum in Old Cairo. Both had been closed for years and have undergone extensive renovations. The two will open to the public in early April 2006. It is likely to take the serious museumgoer several hours to give due appreciation to the unique displays, which hold thousands of artifacts. Each museum warrants a separate day of sightseeing.

Recently opened is the Palace of Mohamed Ali Pasha in Shubra. Go out of your way to visit this architectural masterpiece. The huge garden surrounding the palace had housed Ain Shams University’s Faculty of Agriculture since 1956. For years, the Ministry of Culture had tried to regain control of the dilapidated palace, but faced resistance from the university administration.

Through neglect, only the water fountain palace and the pond had survived, while the rest of the sprawling palace was left to fall apart. The Shubra Palace, which was built in 1808, housed the Pasha’s haramlik (women’s quarters). In 1820, Mohamed Ali invited French architect Pascal Coste to renovate the palace. Apparently, the Pasha wanted to recreate a miniature version of Versailles. The palace was originally built on an area of 11,000 feddans, and consisted of 13 buildings which hosted Egypt’s visiting foreign dignitaries.

Only three sections survive today: the Gabalaya and the Fasqiya buildings, and the Saqia, or waterwheel.

A memorable end to any cultural trip around Cairo is a few cups of tea at the capital’s busy Downtown cafés, where it is not unusual to see the very artists, poets and directors whose works you’ve just admired. Le Grillon on Qasr El-Nil is many an intellectual’s favorite, although it is slowly being replaced by Café Riche, a few meters up the road. The cinema crowd can be seen at Swissair’s La Chesa on Adly Street. Both offer food and a chance to overhear the latest cultural gossip.  et