Ancient, stranded, ghazya, Sanusi, art. Five seemingly unrelated words that always jump to mind whenever I think about Farafra. And yet Farafra, ever elusive and mysterious, embodies all five.

Five major oases dot the Western Desert of Egypt: Siwa, Bahareya, Dakhla, Kharga and Farafra, with Farafra being one of the oldest. The first appearance of the oasis in history books can be traced to the ancient scripts of the Fifth Dynasty, which referred to Farafra as “Ta-iht” (Land of the Cow) after the goddess Hathor. It also received a mention in the classic Pharaonic work The Eloquent Peasant and featured as the third oasis in the primordial text of The Seven Oases in the Temple of Edfu.

Despite the references, no major monuments were ever found in Farafra, save a handful of brick ruins that date back to the Roman period and a couple of small, undecorated rock-cut tombs.

Stranded in the middle of the Western Desert, Farafra was barely accessible, and, as such, went unnoticed for complete periods throughout history. A reference emerges after the Byzantine period when it was Christianized and, like Siwa and Kharga, became a place of banishment. Years later, Al-Yaqubi mentioned it in his ninth century Kitab Al-Buldan (Book of Countries). Farafra was the first oasis to fall to the conquering Arabs, and its inhabitants later converted to Islam.

Until February 17, 1820, Farafra was simply forgotten. That date marks the first visit of a European traveler in modern times as French mineralogist Frédéric Caillaud marched for 32 hours from El-Hayez in Bahareya to reach the outpost. Upon his arrival, he found 180 people living in single village — Qasr El-Farafra.

Located closer to Libya than to the Nile Valley, the small, peaceful oasis drew considerably more interest in the Middle Ages because of its strategic position. Caravans to and from Bahareya, Dakhla, Siwa and Libya all passed by Farafra; money poured in as the era of the ghazya (raid) began.

Mohamed El-Hebeishy The courtyard of the Badawiya Hotel

The oral history, as told by the sheikhs and elders, tells of black attackers who looted the oasis, stole the crops and kidnapped women and children; nobody knows who they were or where they came from. To protect themselves, the Farfaroni (as they call themselves) built a fortress in the Middle Ages; they called it Al-Qasr, later known as Qasr El-Farafra. It housed 116 rooms, with each family inhabiting the oasis assigned a room. The fortress collapsed in part after unusually heavy rains battered the edifice, first in 1945 and then again in 1958.

Farafra’s location attracted not only trade caravans and desert raiders but also the Sanusi. The religious order known as the Sanusi movement was founded in the second half of the 19th century by Sidi Mohamed Al-Sanusi in the oasis of Jaghbub in Libya. By 1859, when the Grand Sanusi died, there were 38 zawya (corners for teaching religious doctrines) formed all around the Libyan Desert. Farafra, along with the other four oases of the Western Desert, all had their own zawyas. The zenith of the Sanusi movement soon faded in Egypt and by the end of the First World War, the Sanusi sect was completely prohibited and all its oasis zawyas closed down.

Today, Farafra is a relatively small oasis, especially if compared to bustling Siwa or frantic Bahareya, so do not expect much. You can visit Qasr El-Farafra and the gardens, a heavily cultivated portion of the oasis with palm, apricot and olive plantations. Though ‘the gardens’ are privately owned, there are no doors to confine any walkers who are welcomed by the friendly locals, so feel free to wander as much as you like.

Attempting to preserve Farafra’s heritage is Badr Abd El-Moghny, a local artist whose work has gained national and international acclaim. Abd El-Moghny has built a traditional eco-friendly house, known as the Badr Museum, using natural material. In addition to his sandstone sculptures, clay wall engravings, sand paintings and terracotta figures, Badr has also pioneered the art of sculpting palm tree trunks. Some of the works are for sale.

Until recently, agriculture was the backbone of the oasis’ economy, but tourism is clearly on the rise. At first, difficult transport and infrastructure hindered the spread of tourism, but that was soon remedied with a sturdy road connecting Farafra to both Bahareya and Dakhla; infrastructure here now includes a clean, reliable water supply and mobile network coverage.

Mohamed El-Hebeishy Farafara is a good launch point for White Desert safaris.

That said, visitors must bear in mind that the oasis is still pretty basic, with only one pharmacy and a rather limited array of choices when it comes to accommodations. Your best bet would be the Badawiya Hotel, a cozy lodging experience immersed in ethnicity and local heritage. A small duplex decorated with Bedouin handicrafts, the first floor is equipped with its own bathroom and shower, while a wooden staircase leads to the bedroom. Your other option would be the new hotel extension with spacious chalets; each comes with its own reception, bedroom and built-in closet. Badawiya Hotel has a pool that is open 24 hours a day but it is not heated.

As Farafra is part of the desert, expect a typical desert climate, ranging from sunny to hot during mornings, while the nights are often cold, or at least chilly. Autumn through spring is your best bet as the summer heat can be intolerable.

Several destinations and activities can be covered in half-day to full-week excursions. Try out sand boarding, but make sure that the board fits and is well waxed. Most importantly, choose a sand dune with no rocks, even if a distance away, as you’ll find yourself sliding pretty fast. Those looking for a less adrenaline-rich experience may opt for a camel safari. The White Desert beckons, with its vast landscape of gorgeous statues, all carved naturally from pure white chalk. The assortment of rock formations is beyond comprehension, each formation carries its own posture and its own aura — a giant eagle, a weeping lady, a proud man and the White Desert’s most famous, The Mushroom.

At the end of the day, it is an indescribable feeling to go back to Farafra and immerse yourself in the bubbling hot water of Bir Sitta (well number six), a spring that serves as a natural Jacuzzi.

If you’re staying more than a day or two, check out Ain Dalla with its sweet tasting spring water and lovely landscape, the gigantic whale-size dunes of the Great Sand Sea, and the tantalizing stalactites and stalagmites of Djarra Cave.  et

Mohamed El-Hebeishy Once a safe haven for 116 families, Qasr El-Farafra has slowly disintegrated over the ages.