Ramadan Gana

HOWEVER SPIRITUAL, festive or serene you prefer your annual Ramadan experience to be, it is almost impossible to live in Egypt without taking part in the traditions that have become synonymous with the month of fasting.

Perhaps that’s because many of these traditions originated right here. The children’s fawanees, the mosalsalat of modern television and after-iftar sweets blend together each year annually to create an atmosphere unique only to this time of year and this place on earth.

Each tradition, of course, is mired in its own set of circulated stories about its origin. The fanous (singular of fawanees), for example, was brought to the country, it is said, with Fatimid rule. One story claims the lanterns were used by Muslims to light the night as they walked in a procession to greet the Holy Month. Another tells that the plastic toys now adored by children and adults alike during the Holy Month used to be made of scrap metal and glass and — with candles inside — used to light the front porches of the houses of the rich during that time.

Still another prevalent account claims the lanterns were used by young boys to escort women out into town in Ramadan, as they were not allowed to leave their homes during any other time of year. The lantern, it is therefore said, was used to inform the men of Cairo of the arrival of a woman so that the sexes could remain separated — and so women could enjoy what little time they were granted outside without harassment.

To save time, buy desserts ready-made.

If you choose to travel up the Nile this holiday into Saeedi territory, and the time for iftar just happens to arrive while you’re still in a car, you might be faced with another deep-rooted tradition that may seem frightening at first: Every Ramadan, the residents of the many villages that line the river block roads daily — in both directions, using tree logs — precisely at sunset. All drivers and passengers of all intercepted traffic are then invited to break their fasts with the villagers either on the roadside, or at a nearby facility. Muslims and non-Muslims alike tell stories of literally being forced to eat in order to be allowed back on their way. And while the ritual may scare first-timers, the people of Saeed have proudly maintained it over the years to showcase their famous hospitality.

Another tradition strictly associated with Ramadan is the messaharaty, the man responsible for waking people up to eat before dawn, when fasting for the next day begins. Anyone’s parents, grandparents and great-grandparents will surely remember hearing the ‘drum and call’ of the messaharaty as a child.

Although the messaharaty continues to appear each year, making many people happy by adding to the Ramadan atmosphere, he is of little practical use for most people, who now have modern alarms and mosalsalat to keep them company until the wee hours. The mosalsalat are a relatively recent tradition born right here and sparked, most probably, by the smash TV serial Layali El-Helmiya, which went on for an epic seven years or so. Earlier generations remember being glued to the TV set to watch Fawazir and 1001 Nights and guess the answers to riddles that have since gone out of fashion.

The messaharaty is not the only Ramadan character who makes an appearance from year to year. There’s the zabadi man, a vendor of fresh yogurt who roams the streets selling his product. Zabadi is likely to have originated as early as the Prophet’s (PBUH) time, for he advised fasting Muslims to consume milk and its products at breakfast. There’s also the ubiquitous pickle man (pickles are perfect condiments and great appetizers) and the qatayef lady, whose origins are chronicled in two legends. One holds that the Fatimids, who were mostly Shiites, wanted to impress Sunnis and as a goodwill gesture offered them kunafa and qatayef. The second tells that as Fatimid men ate so much, they asked someone to invent a filling dish so they wouldn’t go hungry the next day. A baker came up with the idea of feeding them mounds of kunafa and qatayef, both of which are extremely rich and filling, for sohour. Either way, qatayef ladies are usually perched outside corner supermarkets.

Then, of course, the bane of every fasting motorist’s existence: the street beggars. Zakat is encouraged during Ramadan, and there is a mandatory zakat el-fitr (equivalent last year to LE 5 per person) payable to the poor. The concept of fasting itself is to promote solidarity between different social classes by forcing Muslims to experience what it is like to be needy and hungry. That’s all well and good, but today’s breed of beggar is often a cajoling, conniving specimen not worthy of your donations, as they may make more money than you do through their scamming.

The best advice would be to give indiscriminately — your reward is with God — and more importantly, don’t shut out the ones who seem truly in need. Although change is the easiest form of charity to give (some street urchins may scoff at anything less than a LE 5 note, mind you), why not give them what they need most: food and clothes. Cash money is also better put into orphanages and mawaed rahman (charity iftar tables) or into the hands of those who make a pittance but who are too proud to ask for alms, like that traffic warden who misses out on iftar with his family trying to free up traffic so you can make it home on time.

For those of you witnessing their first Ramadan this year, don’t be baffled by the following: persistent invitations to iftar (the month is a family and friends special where no one is left to eat alone. When you get to the feast, expect it to be just that and know that it is considered rude not to eat everything put on your plate.

Traffic: Everyone leaves work around the same time and everyone needs to get home at the same time. It’s a bit of a conundrum given Cairo’s congested streets and nightmarish jams. If you’re not fasting or are not going out to iftar, stay at the office until the stampede is over, then venture out. Otherwise, you’ll just have to brave the gridlock with the rest of us.

Songs: Get used to children singing “Wahawi ya Wahawi” at the tops of their voices any time of the day or night, especially during the first couple of days of the month. The song is a traditional bidding farewell to Shaaban (the month preceding Ramadan) and greeting to the Holy Month that youngsters chant while swinging their new lanterns. Other tunes you’ll likely pick up from TV or radio are the disparate notes of “Ramadan Gana” (Ramadan has Come to Us) and, toward the end of the month, Om Kolthoum’s glorious rendition of “Ya Leilet El-Eid Anisteena” (Eve of the Feast).

Religiosity: Ramadan is a time of prayer and observance, so you’ll see more people performing gama’a prayers at work, and almost everyone reading from a small Qu’ran on the bus or underground and as soon as they get in to work. Some women also take up the veil as a sign of respect.

For even the biggest history buffs, Ramadan might just be too exciting to spend investigating the roots of its traditions. And perhaps some of those stories have gained acceptance more for their romantic appeal than for supporting historical fact. Yet, for most Egyptians, it hardly seems to matter as long as these rituals continue to aid spirituality by making this month of endurance and physical hardship the one they look forward to all year. (AN)

It doesn’t always have to be basboussa, you know

Come Ramadan, there are two great advantages to having in-laws: one, you get an open-ended invitation to iftar, and two, you won’t always be expected to walk in with a gift in return. Although traditions, not to mention common courtesy, mandate that you offer a present at least the first time you’re invited, you can get away with bringing nothing at all on subsequent visits.

But with other family members, friends and acquaintances, it’s a different story, and a guest arriving empty-handed is considered extremely rude. For years it’s been expected that guests bring the helw (dessert, usually Oriental sweets), generally resulting in mountains of more kunafa, basboussa and baklawa than people know what to do with. You can always take a potted plant or a silver knickknack, but try these ideas for alternative gifts that will be more appreciated as you can put them together yourself and which you can still munch on in front of the TV.

Dried fruit platter: Pop over to Zahran or any other household goods store and pick up a few funky glass platters, going for about LE 20-30 each. The divided ones are best as they can help you arrange yameesh, which you’ll probably have mountains of anyway. Slice apricots, arasia (prunes) and figs, and place a whole blanched almond or any other large nut inside each piece of fruit and make a colorful arrangement. Place a handful of pistachios or salted almonds in the middle of the platter, then cover well with a stretch of clingfilm. You can go to the stationery store to get in it wrapped in colorful linen or chiffon, or you can save time and do it on your own at home.

Fresh fruit basket: Again, all household goods stores stock woven baskets with pretty wrought-iron handles and trim. Fill with a selection of fresh fruit and small packages of cashew or pistachio nuts. Wrap the whole thing in clear or colored plastic with a large bow.

Chocolate-dipped fruit and nuts: The kids love these, as do adults, as chocolate is generally banished from any iftar menu. Melt bars of dark, milk and white chocolate separately and use to coat blanched nuts or fresh firm fruit such as bananas or strawberries. Place on baking sheets to cool. Get innovative with what you put them in – try those otherwise tacky brandy glass-shaped vases, tall glass vases or colorful frosted glass bowls. Just remember that these do melt quickly, so keep them in the fridge until just before you leave and make sure you have the AC on while you’re driving. (NM)

Is there a specific dress code people should adhere to during Ramadan?

OUT OF SHEER RESPECT, Muslims and Christians alike have grown accustomed to avoiding wearing revealing clothing for the duration of the Holy Month. For women: Tight pants and bodysuits, sleeveless tops, transparent materials and short skirts are suddenly not hip. No matter how hot it is (Ramadan is just going to keep getting hotter as it moves deeper into the summer during the next few years) people seem to manage.

Makeup should be on the lighter side (never mind the mosalsalat actresses who look like Gene Simmons of Kiss) as it gives a more decent image. Likewise, heavy perfumes are not really suitable.

People have mixed opinions concerning the temporary ‘seasonal higab’ phenomenon: Some Muslims view it as being positive in that it may lead to a permanent wearing of the veil. Others think that you are either veiled or you’re not.

And for guys? Wearing shorts may not be such a good idea because, again, you may be invited after iftar to pray tarawih at a mosque with a friend. In an ideal world, the attire should be the same for before and after iftar.

Some men tend to start wearing traditional attire during Ramadan. It is not uncommon for you to see men who would otherwise have a shirt and pants on wearing galabeyas and abayas (cloaks) as well as the traditional white, perforated prayer cap in Ramadan, especially when going to prayer.

Kids should avoid wearing offensive T-shirts with foul language and/or cartoons of babes in bikinis. You should bear in mind that you may have to go and pray in the clothes that you are wearing and therefore they should be fitting for the occasion. (KE)  et